Auschwitz: A Look at the Russian Exposition

Soviet troops fought their way into Auschwitz on January 27, 1945. They first learned about the death camp weeks earlier when liberating Krakow, Poland an hour east.

In the 70 years since, the Auschwitz site has been carefully preserved. The memorial and museum are a high-priority visit for travelers to central Europe. I'd been to Auschwitz, myself, in 2004, part of a large conference group and soon realized it was so emotionally intense, I'd need to make another trip: There's a limit to what one person can absorb in an afternoon.

April of 2010, happened that I was in Warsaw waiting for my Russian visa ~ the perfect opportunity to revisit Auschwitz. Dear friends in Warsaw, Lukasz and Nicole led the way. Say, care to join us and see what we saw?

We left Warsaw before dawn that Saturday and headed south on a high-speed train to Krakow. As the sun came up, we were zipping through forested areas of southern Poland.

Deep in thought, fellow traveler in our compartment.(Click to enlarge.)

Zipping through rural areas, heading south from Warsaw.

Several hours later, after a train-to-bus transfer, we arrived in Auschwitz. This time, it was The Russian Exhibition that caught my attention, a work-in-progress at the time of our visit. Since then, it has been finished and dedicated.

Liberation: From RIANOVOSTI, Russian News Service. At the RIANOVOSTI site, a slide show of the exhibition's dedication. (The site is in Russian, but photos are photos!)

But oh, mercy ~  I'm getting ahead of myself. First, at the camp entrance, we meet the orchestra that sent prisoners off to work and then welcomed them home each day.

Imagine playing in the Auschwitz Orchestra. When a trainload of new arrivals pulled in, they were welcomed with folk music from their homeland. The orchestra also performed at the most gruesome times and also on Sundays for the Auschwitz staff and their families.

Under the sign, Work Makes You Free, in German, likely the most photographed site at Auschwitz.

Once inside, fences, barbed wire and barracks.

Well, okay: We won't even think about going there. . .

Auschwitz is near a small town and has a rural feel even now. It's so quiet and peaceful. What a contrast to 70-some years ago when thousands of people were packed together and the air was rank with smoke from the crematoria.

Nowadays, the air at Auschwitz is so fresh, songbirds abound and tiny violets grow.

Insightful video from Rick Steves, Seattle-based travel expert and author.



Billed as America's leading authority on European travel, Rick Steves pretty much wrote the book.

Star of David in wrought iron.

Wall of Execution: In the early days of Auschwitz, it was here that prisoners faced firing squads. But the faces staring back at them so haunted the Nazi solders, that camp switched to mass cremation. 

Visitors to Auschwitz. The gentleman standing, far right intrigues me. Perhaps he's overcome with emotion. Perhaps he's just checking his phone.

Now, on to the Russian Exhibition which opened in 2014. Renovation was in process when we visited in 2010.

Exhibition of the Liberation of Auschwitz. Sponsored by the Russian Federation.

Soviet military leader, V. Sokolovskiy, who planned the Auschwitz liberation.

Precious innocents: Keeping warm in cast-off clothing.

Soviet soldiers visit with Auschwitz prisoners.

Soviet physician examines a prisoner.

Children of Auschwitz: Taken to an orphanage somewhere. . .

Funeral service, attended by Polish church dignitaries and Soviet military leaders.

Yours Truly

Lukasz and Nicole manage an early-morning smile.This dear couple were my hosts. Lukasz made it all happen: He's a Polish national, the ultimate resource on such trip. 

This high-speed train from Warsaw to Krakow.  

Our Auschwitz trip included a side-trip to the nearby Birkenau camp and took a full day. I need to return and take in the Russia Exhibition, completed since my last visit. I'm so grateful to those who liberated the camp. Grateful to those who brought to justice the perpetrators of these horrors. And a bow of deepest respect to those whose lives were shattered by what happened at Auschwitz. May they somehow find strength to move on. May they find peace.

Spotting Ronald Reagan in Warsaw

In Warsaw and looking for adventure, I headed out from my hostel near the Copernicus statue into the drizzle in search of Ronald Reagan. And sure enough, at the edge of a small park across from the U.S. Embassy is a monument honoring our 40th president.

Cast in bronze, the statue of Ronald Reagan captures him in 1987 at the Brandenburg Gate, Berlin, when he challenged Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev to Tear down this wall! The statue project was initiated by Polish business community, funded by private donations and sculpted by a national artist.

Without the support of Ronald Reagan, we wouldn't have a free Poland, said Lech Walesa, November 2011, as he unveiled the statue. Lech Walesa was co-founder of Poland's Solidarity movement in 1980 and, ten years later, the first popularly elected president of Poland.

Along with flowers and candles, an official bouquet complete with Polish flags and streamers emblazoned Solidarity grace the site.

The statue faces the U.S. Embassy, Warsaw. 

The November, 2011 dedication ceremony included a statement from U.S. President Barak Obama and a message from Nancy Reagan.

Photos of Chicago grace the fence of the U.S. Embassy, Warsaw. The security guard, a Polish fellow, gave me permission to photograph them but only from across the street. Security issues, you know. ;)

When and where did I last see this magnificent flag? Probably right here, on a previous trip to Poland.

A salute to Ronald Reagan for encouraging other countries in their quest for freedom. What a wise leader he was. President Reagan said the right words at the right time, nudging Central and Eastern Europe toward freedom. And what an impact!

How about you, dear blog reader, have you been overseas and happened upon a statue of an American leader? Please do share. . .

As Warsaw Weeps. . .

The scene near the Presidential Palace in Warsaw, last Sunday evening, 11th April, where the body of the president was lying in state. Everybody was heading toward the palace, thousands of Polish folk were there to pay their respects. Let me tell you right here, that the best two photos are at the very end of this post, about 3 kilometers south of here, both snatched from friend Nicole's Facebook page. More about that later. . .


Near the Presidential Palace. This close was close enough for me, toward the north end of New World Street. (Click photos to enlarge.)

But let's rewind a bit. Here we are on the south end of New World Street, near the statue of Copernicus. Folks above are heading home.

Hundreds of thousands of people were there Saturday evening, someone said. I'd say Sunday afternoon, mega thousands were there as the president's body was returned from Russia and brought to the palace. Toward evening, crowds were thinning out and families were there with children.


A group of Catholic nuns leaving a church of New World Street.


Even dogs wanted to be there.

Candles for sale. Thousands of candles.


Tulips for sale, two zloties each. With 3 zloties - or s0- to the dollar, that would be close to 60 cents each, likely per stem.


A Catholic church, heading toward the Presidential Palace. In this church is the heart of the great Polish composer, Chopin. That was his wish.


Correspondents were everywhere. News crews were busy getting their stories. The interview above went on at length. . .

A street lamp made a handy ladder for this photographer, shooting toward the palace.


This little girl was on a good perch, her daddy's shoulders. Is she shooting in our direction?


Another news crew, interviewing somebody on the street.

This photographer, child and mother interested me. The man was taking time to get the flag, the boy and all just right. Eventually realized that they were family.

Toward the palace, the photographer on the crane, upper left, was clever. What do you think, do the media networks have advance plans for getting the best shots of group events such as this? So maybe they already know where to rent cranes and such. Would you happen to know?

A sea of candles and flowers.

Scouts were enforcing the barriers between the crowds and tributes. This scout noticed that I had stepped over the line. Soon he came and requested that I move back. Got our exchange on this video.


Thanks to dear Nicole Linebaugh Kondracki who showed what she's made of: Nicole and husband Lucas captured those photos before dawn Monday morning. They're hauntingly beautiful ~ the photos, that is.

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, Warsaw.

Here's the Presidential Palace Monday morning, no lines and no waiting. Fabulous shots Nicole. I'm in awe.

As Poland Grieves

Dear Friends, Greetings from Warsaw. A quick blog post to share with you sights and sounds on the streets here as Poland weeps. These photos were taken Sunday evening. I have lots more! This is for starters. More later. . .




Flags everywhere. The Polish flag is so simple - red and white - now with black ribbon added.



On New World Street, pockets of interviews.


Photographer found a unique perch - shooting from a portable toilet.


Now that's clever - not much can beat the view from a crane.


Near the Presidential Palace where the president's body is lying in state.


Photographer daddy capturing important day in little boy's life.


Polish flags for sale. I barely resisted buying. . .


From Copernicus and me, a solemn hello from Warsaw.