The Resurrection of a Moscow Cathedral

On a recent trip to Moscow, a visit to Cathedral of Christ the Savior topped my list of new experiences. Having stumbled across the drama of its construction, destruction and eventual rebuilding, I wanted to learn more. I can't endorse all its teachings, but still, there's much to admire here, including the resilience of the Russian spirit. 

At the cathedral on a recent December evening.

Close up: Golden cupolas up there somewhere. . .

Life in the USSR grew darker still when Joseph Stalin looked out his Kremlin office window and was displeased by that cathedral, that Christ the Savior Cathedral which dominated the mid-distance. For one thing, he agreed with mentor Vladimir Lenin, that religion needed to be quashed. Another thing, the cathedral was a czar-era accomplishment, an era Stalin wanted erased from history.

Besides that, he had other plans for that very spot, plans bigger and bolder than had ever been imagined. And, so, December 1931, Stalin ordered the cathedral destroyed. Because he could.



Eyewitness account of videographer who captured the destruction.

Of course this wasn't the only Russian cathedral Stalin demolished. There were hundreds. But the Cathedral of Christ the Savior was exceptionally dear to the national psyche: It was built to celebrate surviving Napoleon's invasion. In fact, on Christmas day, 1812, as Napoleon's troops staggered out of Russian in defeat, Czar Alexander I, a contemporary of Thomas Jefferson, ordered a cathedral built . . . to signify our gratitude to Divine Providence for saving Russia from the doom that overshadowed Her. 

Generations later in 1883, the cathedral was finished and for the auspicious occasion, ~ drum roll please ~ Russia's legendary composer, P.I. Tchaikovsky, was pressed into service to write the Overture of 1812. To this day, the overture is popular, even in the U.S. where it is often played during Fourth of July fireworks displays, complete with the sound of cannon fire.

During its 50 year history, the cathedral witnessed seismic political upheavals. Protests of the early 1900's, led to the the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917, the end of the Czarist monarchy and the Russian Civil War. Then, under Vladimir Lenin, the Russian Empire evolved into the Soviet Union during which massive military parades were staged in Red Square, just blocks from the cathedral. After Lenin's death, Stalin  had dramatic changes in mind for the structure itself.

In place of the cathedral, Stalin envisioned a massive Palace to the Soviets, planned to be the tallest building in the world, topped by Vladimir Lenin himself, his right arm extended in his favorite hail-a-taxi pose.

And so, on December 5, 1931, as per Stalin's decree, the cathedral was demolished. Only thing, after all that, Stalin's Palace to the Soviets never materialized: The spot stood empty for years while Stalin dealt more pressing concerns including Hitler's invasion in 1941. But on to Plan B for the site: After Stalin's death in the early 50's, Nikita Krushchev transformed the crater into a heated swimming pool, and in typical Soviet style, it was huge.

In the early 1990's, after perestroika and waves of political changes, the Russian Orthodox church requested permission of the Russian government and city of Moscow to rebuild the cathedral. The request was granted. First, the swimming pool was dismantled in 1994 and work begun on the cathedral. Six years later, the new cathedral was finished and dedicated.


Care to join me on a tour? Here's the backstory, reconstruction and dedication. Thrilling, indeed.

Current view from the Kremlin. The cathedral has been rebuilt.As for Stalin,
his grave is in Red Square, just yards from Lenin's Mausoleum. (Photo from book, below.)

The cathedral bookshop sells this book in several languages. Copyright in 2005, published by Ivan Fiodorov. Printed
in Russia. Photos by N Rakhmanov and V. Korniushin.

In  the closing words of the video, Maybe now, the future of the church's place is assured in the minds and hearts of the Russian peoples. History will surely tell.

We are told that God is the Rewarder of those who diligently seek Him (Hebrews 11:6). May this magnificent cathedral serve to point searchers to God and to His truth.

Snow, Glorious Snow: A Spiritual Metaphor

What can be more perfect, more pristine than a layer of fresh snow? We've had lots of new snow lately here in Rostov-on-Don and I love to walk through the magic. Its perfect whiteness reminds me that our Holy Father longs to transform our personal landscapes, covering up the ugliness with His sparkling perfection.

Two weeks ago, a mama and her boys enjoying fresh snow, using the sled to transporting the little guy. (Click to enlarge.) Thanks folks for being such willing models.

Here in southern Russia, snow is beautiful a few days before a thawing and refreezing cycle begins. Soon the winter wonderland is reduced to a sloppy, slushy mess and, once again, the litter, cigarette butts and doggy business are on display. 

And that's where the spiritual analogy breaks down. When God cleanses us, He deep-cleans the whole way down. He does more than sprinkle some pretty over the muck and yuck. 

Well, here's the same spot ten days later after warmer temperatures: Significantly less enchanting.

Friends, here's a glimpse into of Russian winter, both pretty and ugly. I'm sharing lots more of the pretty, because after all, we are encouraged to think about the good stuff  We read . . . whatever is true, whatever is noble, whatever is right, whatever is pure, whatever is lovely, whatever is admirable--if anything is excellent or praiseworthy--think about such things. (Philippians 4:8, NIV). I'd say that applies here too.

Anything sweeter than a baby? His whole life is ahead of him.

A car heading home from work, north on Semashka Street.

Willing models, these girls. Happened upon them as they were taking their photo together. Grabbed my camera to capture them but a bit late. They were still laughing about our encounter when they were halfway down the block. See, Russian girls can be giggly too. 

Almost dusk on Voroshilovsky Street near the Central City Hospital.

Pyshkinskaya, a pedestrian-only boulevard some 16-some blocks long, is a quiet oasis in  the heart of the city.

Pedestrians on a side street heading home, probably thinking about dinner. And that's probably be sausage and potatoes. Or pelmeni. 

This fellow's heading north on Semashka, passing МЧС, the Department of Emergency Services, administrative headquarters for southern Russia.

Two ladies catching up with each other. Perhaps they were once co-workers, now retired and have lots to discuss.

Hold on, here's some slop and slush.

Voroshilovsky Prospect looking north. There is one spot of beauty, one redeeming bit of loveliness in this photo: A vendor is selling roses at the red table there, barely visible under the billboard. And that brought some sunshine to the bleak view.

Here's ugly on Gazetney Street: Snow trickling down toward the Don River, about one kilometer to go. One visitor to Rostov, an architect in New York City, pointed out the lack of drainage culverts on the streets. Aha! So that's why these streets can be such a mess. 

How about something special to wrap up. Here's a winter view that's made me laugh. Last month in Ternopil, Ukraine, I looked out the church building window after worship and had to grab my camera. Do you see anything unusual?

Someone's being pulled on a sled and that's a common sight. But only for children. Let's zoom on in because that person doesn't look like a kid!

Sure enough, this energetic fellow is pulling a woman up the hill. I'm guessing it's his grandmother. Perhaps they're going to the little grocery store just up the street. Now that's is true devotion!

Dear Blog-reading friends, wishing you the most beautiful of layer of pure whiteness in your landscape, in your heart and in your soul this winter! And tell me, what do You think about snow as a spiritual metaphor? Does it work. . . . or am I all wet? ;)

Karl Marx: Insider Information

Here in Rostov-on-Don, Karl Marx Square is a well-known hub of transportation and retail just east of the city center. Karl Marx Square happens to be between my bus stop and our church building so I see the Karl Marx statue in weather fair and foal. (Time out while I check that word. I know it's not fowl weather...although birds do enjoy perching atop his head.) Okay, make that foul weather. And, moving right along. . . .

Karl Marx Square: Captured with cell phone during a steady snow. 

On a recent afternoon, I had a look at Karl Marx' backside, or rather, at the back of his statue, and noticed that he's holding something. It's likely that this has been a secret. Until now.  And I figure that You have a right to know this: Karl Marx is holding a snowball. And we photographic evidence.

Karl Marx and his secret snowball. (Click to enlarge.)

Can only imagine what plans he has for that snowball. So he was really into politics, economics, sociology, class struggle and such, according to Wikipedia. And now we know. . . the rest of the story. He could be a prankster. 

What sort of fun have You had with snowballs? Today a snowball helped me scare the socks off my neighbor boy, Vova, running into him on the sidewalk with his head in the clouds.

Big Day for Icy Swimming in Russia

The *Polar Bear Club* across Russia is thriving today. People are jumping into icy cold waters in this sub-freezing weather not for sport, however, but to celebrate the baptism of Jesus, celebrated today by the Russian Orthodox church. The enthusiasts believe that their sins will be forgiven and any illnesses cured.

Thanks to the video, I learned that the more sins that need to be forgiven, the colder the water will feel. Now this is making sense: people are always saying afterward, Oh it wasn't all that cold!

Of Masks, Furs and Frosty Reflections

Does the staff at your McDonald's wear masks? Just wondering. Because in Kharkov, Ukraine the current McD's uniform includes face masks. And I knew that you would want to know about this. But first things first.

(Click photos to enlarge) So they're featuring this neat menu item Grill Lavash, which looks very much like what was dubbed the Greek Burger, as I recall, during the 2004 Olympic games. At least at Russian McDonald's. Makes perfect sense, right?


Here's a close-up look at the Grill Lavash. Figured we'd better shoot it quick before any more disappeared. And yes, I'm quite aware of what this bite reveals about orthodonture and such, another topic altogether. . .


So here's McDonald's staff en masque. It's something to do with swine flu. Or politics. Or maybe it's about keeping warm on a very cold day.


After lunch, or maybe before, I happened upon this sculpture just outside McD's. Bet those two kiddos wish they'd worn their knickers. Or even a strategically-placed mask. Or two or three.


In the same spot are architectural feats of local buildings. You'll forgive me for not researching the names of these places. Because, for one thing, what is more interesting is the street scene in the background. This was around 2:30 pm, approaching dusk local time.


Another local building. More traffic backed up. Oopsie: Remember to turn off your flash, gypsy girl.


Later, picking my way along Pyhskinskaya, a store window with winter hats. Each degree the temperature drops, the fur hats with ear flaps look that much more fetching.



Speaking of fetching, here's a lovely blue coat in the window. Oh, and mercy me. . . there's a familiar face too. Say, the idea of a face mask sounds pretty wonderful right now. Just simply for keeping warm. Later learned that it was -6F.

Happy New Year and Merry Christmas

Especially for you . . . and you . . . and YOU for New Year's I'd like to invite you along on a little stroll through the snowy, icy streets of Rostov. Care to join me? Careful though, oh my are these sidewalks slippery.

First, the sign here at Children's World says Happy New Year and Merry Christmas. Doesn't that just roll off your tongue? Literally, the red says We congratulate you. And the blue says With the New Year and Christmas. And that's the order in which things happen around here.

And that's because Orthodox Christmas comes on January 7th. Whereas Catholic Christmas, as it's called here, is. . . on December 25th.

Isn't that in the Bible somewhere? ;)



Walking along Pyshkinskaya Boulevard. How I love this street. I lived on Pyshkinskaya for, what, 8 years and then I needed to move. And now my pulse quickens when I'm even on it. Pyshkinskaya is a pedestrian-only boulevard that runs right through the city center. It's so peaceful and quiet. And picturesque. And. . .somebody actually clears part of the sidewalk.


A sculpture to Pyshkin, the great Russian poet after whom this boulevard was named. It's likely that every city in Russian has something named in his honor. Just like in the US every city has a street named after the great American poet, Robert Frost.

Right?


People in Russia still line up for bread. Truly. Today these dear souls were queued up for loaves. There was a limit of five loaves and two fishes each. (haha) Well not to worry though. There's bread everywhere, readily available. I need to find out what's the deal with this bread on this corner that people queue up for it. Maybe it's ultra fresh and super cheap. Or maybe they're just reminiscing about the old days when standing in long lines was part of the deal.


Had to laugh at the graffiti. This was on a garage door at a home I visited today. That Buka is Russian for Vika - pronounced VEE-ka, and short for Valentina. Yes, Vika is definitely beat-i-ful at 16 years of age. Thanks to this cool young lady I learned not to leave my purse unattended. (Even at church. . .)


Oh meet Rex, one of our church employees. He eats better than anybody and takes quite seriously his responsibility to guard our property. Interestingly he knows who's visiting and whose not. After posing for this picture he suddenly turned tail and hurried back into his garage. That's Rex. Kind of shy about publicity and such.



This sweet babyshka, or grandmother, afternoons she sets up shop here on the street corner and sells home-cooked food. For one thing, she sells cooked beets. That's handy. And she has this wonderful bean salad with walnuts in it. She's got a whole system worked out, including the plastic film on the posts behind her which serves as a wind break. Within minutes people were crowded around to buy.


On Monday, this archway I spotted on Gazetti ("Newspaper") Street. Neat view back there into that courtyard.


And pretty soon somebody had to come marching right into the middle of the picture. They did ask though and of course I said Please do, because that adds another dimension. Which is totally different from adding dementia. Or so they say.



Monday morning 11:00-ish on Gazetti Street. Some old houses. Charming, eh? Right smack in the city center.


Below the Russian Flag we read North Caucauses (1st line) Academy (2nd line) of Government (3rd line) Service (4th line). This young lady might have been going to take an exam. She seemed to be mumbling under her breath as she walked by. . .


Then, heading on back to our church building, I happened upon a gypsy woman. She seemed nice enough, familiar somehow. I stopped to visit for a bit and asked to take a picture.

She was a bit demanding, actually, insisting on no few than three photos and wanting to use a special lens that would make her look young, slender, charming and smart. That's a gypsy for you.

I asked if she might sing a song from her home far away and, surprisingly, she launched into one. This world is not my home, I'm just a passing through. . .My treasures are laid up. . . somewhere beyond the blue. . .

Either she's seriously deluded or she's onto something. Personally, I think she's onto something.

Well, dearly beloved, gypsy friend joins me in wishing you a Happy New Year! And a Merry Christmas!

Favorite Christmas Songs: Let's Celebrate!

Greetings and a Merry Christmas, dear friends. At the risk of sounding totally out of the loop, I'll admit that my Christmas tree isn't up just yet. Honest! But there's time, there's time, because Orthodox Christmas comes. . . after New Year's on the 7th of January. But today it instantly became festive around here when I dug out my Christmas music and suddenly my little home sweet home was filled with Mannheim Steamroller Christmas and Amy Grant's Home for Christmas. My little canary and cockatiel warbled along too.

And now, with a nod to YouTube and the folks who brought us the internet, I'd like to present three videos of Christmas music for your listening pleasure. First, in the category of religious music is While Angels Watched Their Flocks and Oh Little Town of Bethlehem - with a new twist, and all a cappella.


Oh, what absolutely magnificent harmony. Presented by the Church of All Nations Singers of Boca Raton, Florida (2005).


Next, in the secular music category, here's The Christmas Song also known as Chestnuts Roasting by an Open Fire, a cappella with David Archuleta, American Idol runner-up.


Now that young fellow can sing! And he manages to do so despite screaming fans.


Finally, in the comedy division, here's Jingle Bells and Deck the Halls as sung - make that as woofed and meowed - by an assorted mix of cats and dogs.


They're so happy to join in the celebration. Wishing a very Merry Christmas to you and yours!

Furs, Furs, Glorious Furs

Cold Russian winters and fur coats go together like...like birds of a feather. Some are simply absolutely breathtaking. One neat thing about the fur coat ladies, they're always quite pleased to pose for a photograph. Certainly can't blame them. A few years back, someone who would know (Tatyana in Brest, Belarus) said that a mink coat easily runs a year's wages and that it's meant to last for a lifetime.

This could be mink. On the other hand, maybe not. It's definitely not lamb.


This also could be mink. I'd say we could rule out fox on this one.


This one is not mink. Hmmm. She told me but how could I write it down when I was busy with the camera? Maybe you know what fur this is? We can safely rule out ermine on this one.

Anybody out there got a fur coat? Want one? Want to buy me one? Well, actually I have a respectible Republican cloth coat. It's exactly 10 years old and looks like new.

In a One *Horse* Open Sleigh

Wanted: Your caption for this photo. We could have a contest with this! Please submit your entry -- and I'll pick one! (Photo courtesy of English Russia: Life in Soviet Russia.)

See the Frozen Sea

Standing on the Sea of Azov, the northeastern corner of the Black Sea. Hoping to work on my sea standing technique until I can walk on water. Just like Peter did for a half a minute.

View straight south across the Sea of Azov.

View out over the Sea of Azov from stairway leading down.

Kids Sledding along the Street

Kids enjoying a ride up Pyshkinskaya Boulevard on a quiet Sunday afternoon. And how about you? Remember the last time you were on a sled - either for transportation for just for the fun of it?

This Frost-ing Takes the Cake

Now this frosted window is the best yet. It appeared on my balcony January 1st and I treasured it as a special С Новом Годом (New Year’s) gift especially for me. This frosting is even better than December’s frosted windows and manages to beat last winter’s best, that icy Medusa look.

Isn’t it magnificent? Looks like etching on glass, so fragile and beautiful, feather fronds of ice. As I studied it, creativity came to mind and The Creator came to mind and I was scratching my head, wondering if frost were mentioned in the Bible. Da, it is! Thanks to Nelson’s Complete Concordance, a 2-kilogram wonder, here’s what was listed,

God thundereth marvelously with His voice; great things doeth He, which we cannot comprehend. For He saith to the snow, `Be thou on the earth' . . . By the breath of God frost is given and the broad waters frozen. (From Job 37. New King James Version and 21st Century King James Version.)

How about you: What winter scenes or slices of nature have absolutely taken your breath away with their beauty? What have you found awesome?

Frosted Windowpanes...

Candles gleaming inside. . .painted candy canes on the tree. . . These words from Christmas Waltz paint the perfect picture.


Of course, Christmas might be old news where you live, but here in Russia, Orthodox Christmas is Monday, January 7. And, as for frosted windowpanes, have a look at mine! This view is out my kitchen window and onto the balcony.


I think the patterns are exquisite -- even through the security bars which are almost pretty as far as security bars go. But they're a must for first-floor apartment dwellers and a simply a wise investment for second-floor folks such as myself. And they do add a bit of visual texture to those windowpanes.

Say, here are my best iced window shots from last winter, and in my humble opinion, they're positively breathtaking.