Captivated at Checkpoint Charlie: The Berlin Wall

It was this painting at the Checkpoint Charlie Museum that stopped me in my tracks. This fascinating museum overlooks that most popular of crossing points of the Berlin Wall. Say care to join me for look around?

The painting grabbed me and I dug around for a tissue. (Click to enlarge photo.) It covers most of a wall and I may have stood there for five minutes taking it in. The older lady on lower right tugged at my heartstrings. Let's zoom on in.


Let's call her Frau Browncoat. Surrounded by revelry, champaign flowing freely and folks hugging on loved ones, the moment is bittersweet for our friend. Did she lose a family member to The Wall? Did her husband or brother risk his life to escape with plans to return for the others? I joined her in dabbing and tissue-ing. Oh but of course, she would be using a sensible handkerchief. (Painting credit: "The 9th of November, 1989" by Matthias Koeppel.)

By the time I reached this painting near the end of the tour, my travel companions were long gone back to the hotel. I'd been there maybe two hours, listening to the recorded tour in English, stealing a few photos. Eventually I got to this painting and then the bookstore - and oh, were those folks ever glad to see me and my trusty MasterCard. ;)


This first trip to Berlin was early August, 2005. We had one afternoon and an overnight in the city. Several of us had opted for this 5-day post-lectureship tour through east Germany after a week in Warsaw for the Pan European Lectureship (PEL). And our swing through eastern Germany included an afternoon and overnight in Berlin.

After the museum and a quick tour around town, I knew I could spend a week, maybe a lifetime in Berlin. Having to leave after less than a day was painful ~ I had already developed a fascination with the place. You might ask, what's so interesting about Berlin? Well, let me tell you: Berlin was the hub of Cold War action. It's where the east and west butted heads. Where communism and democracy were separated by inches. It's where people gambled their very lives to get to freedom. And they found a million and one creative ways to do that. Oh and I've got photos! Beyond all that, thanks to 10-plus years of living in Russia, I have a personal interest too: Berlin is where the U.S. and USSR got eyeball to eyeball and neither liked what they saw.


So here we are out on the street, the museum behind us, looking west toward the American Sector. Which, more accurately, would be called the U.S. Sector. But nobody asked for my input. Well alrighty, then. ;)


Here we are, looking the other direction: We're standing in the American sector, looking at Checkpoint Charlie and beyond into East Berlin. The museum is on the left. Say, see any familiar faces here? This was a fun memory. Happened to be my birthday in 2007, my second trip to Berlin, and I said to the German youth there dressed as an American soldier, please help me look young and thin, smart and interesting. . .


Important announcement in English and Russian, then French and German. Oh, but why all these languages? There's a reason, but we need to rewind a bit. . .


As you may recall, at the end of World War II, Germany was divided between Russia - the USSR, actually - and the Allies. And then the city of Berlin was divided as well, as you see on the map above. (Click photo to enlarge.) This was totally nuts. But that was the agreement reached in negotiations that followed the war. West Berlin was rather like an island there in East Germany, surrounded on all sides by Soviet-controlled East Germany. There's another story there, about the Berlin Airlift. I've got some photos of that story too. . .


One not-so-lovely day in 1961, big, brash Nikita Khrushcev announces what's going to be what in Berlin. The question: Why did they build the wall? The wall went up because so many citizens were fleeing from the east side to the west. East Germany was losing its population.


Time out for a little video from Russia Today.

The Soviet perspective is interesting: that at least some East Berliners are nostalgic for the Soviet era.


Nowadays in Berlin, here's what you'll find where there was once a wall.

That's it ~ plaques such as this one and smooth pavement. These wall markers snake through the city's center and kids ride their bikes over them every day without blinking an eye. But the markers serve as a reminder of where the wall once stood.

Here and there is a cross-section of the wall. Just for nostalgia's sake. . .

And here's a larger section of the wall.

Let's revisit the map. (Double click to enlarge.) The border there between East and West Berlin was a bit of a squirrel's nest but that was - and still is - the city center. Checkpoint Charlie is there and then a few blocks south is Brandenburg Gate.

And we do know a thing or two about Brandenburg Gate, do we not? That's where U.S. President Ronald Reagan challenged Soviet Premier Mikael Gorbochev to tear down this wall, June of 1987. Brandenburg Gate is where U.S. President John F. Kennedy thought he said I am a Berliner in June, 1963. What he really said was I am a jelly doughnut. Ah yes, the joys of meaning one thing and saying something quite different. . . And at a nearby hotel, overlooking Brandenburg Gate, is the hotel balcony where Michael Jackson dangled his infant son to the horror of onlookers below.

Well, thank you for joining me for a quick look at Berlin. Throughout this week, I hope to share some fascinating photos of how folks escaped from East to West Germany. Talk about creativity, excitement and danger wrapped together. Please join me again to visit Berlin, the city at the center of reunification, 20 years ago today.

And how about you, dear blog reader. Been to Berlin? Got a piece of The Wall? Any Cold War stories? Please do share!

Runaway Bus in Russia: The Rest of the Story

Just in case you missed this, recently a passenger bus in Perm, Russia had brake failure and crashed into 20 vehicles before coming to a stop two kilometers down the road. The drama peaked when the bus plowed through a pedestrian walkway and a man escaped certain death by millimeters. His peripheral vision must be amazing. Watch the video.

Doesn't that just make your heart pound? Good lesson for when crossing the street. I'm going keep my eyes on those drivers. Listen, I just found an update on the story: Here's an interview with the surviver, Vitaly, 23, a medical student who tells about being late for a date. Gotta love this!

Here's the near-miss in slow motion from YouTube:

And that's not all! This is the near-miss from four cameras, as reported on the all-news station out of Moscow.




I can imagine that our hero, Vitaly, bought his girlfriend flowers. Better yet, maybe she bought him some! How about you, dear blog reader? Any near misses? Ever beyond thankful for a *guardian angel?*

Russian-American Adoptee Gives Back

I have a new hero. It's Alex Griffith, 16, who was featured earlier this year as CNN Hero of the Week. Look at what this young man accomplished.




Oh, now you've got me dreaming, Alex, you got me dreamin'. . .

I'm dreaming that these little guys will be adopted, with a mother and father of their very own. Then there will be no lines, no waiting, no competition with 12 other kids to get hugs and affection.



I dream about what these children might become, given half a chance. There's a steady stream of adoptive parents who come to adopt little ones. In fact, one of the little guys in this photo is in the process of being adopted. He keeps asking, Where's my papa? Young as he is, he seems to understand that finally, it's his turn to leave the orphanage. Finally, it's his turn to leave with a mama and papa of his very own.


Meanwhile, back inside the hen house. . .

One of the caretakers designed and painted this herself at home. Just out of love for her little brood.


This little pumpkin is so cute. Look at her foot there planted between the rails. She's a poser already, anticipating a photo shoot with Vogue. How I love a good poser.


Oh and here's little Miss Personality. Look at that. This child doesn't even know me. This might have been the second time we've seen each other. But when I leave, she toddles to the door to see me off. Given a personality like that, doors will open, little chickie, doors will open.


But not everybody's so thrilled. This little Cry Guy doesn't know me either. Talk about terror - yikes! That's okay. A little crying helps develop the lungs. Or so they say. . .


A little cow asleep on the crescent moon. I love you, says the star that hangs on a doorway.


I dream of these children being inspired by the likes of Alex Griffin, to return to their roots and bring such happiness to other children. And even beyond that, to bring joy to themselves, joy that simply can not be bought.

• Story Highlights (Thanks to CNN)
  
• Alex Griffith, 16, was adopted as a sickly baby from a Russian hospital
• To give back to his birthplace, he raised $60,000 to build a new playground
• The project was part of Griffith's quest to become an Eagle Scout
  

How about you, dear blog readers. You may have met some inspiring adoptees or heroic adoptive families. Maybe you're an adoptive parent yourself. Please share some of your experiences and insight. . .

Happy Birthday, Lady Liberty!

Today Lady Liberty celebrates a very big birthday. Six score and three years ago, to paraphrase Abraham Lincoln, Miss Liberty was inaugurated by President Grover Cleveland.


Here's the view of Lady Liberty that comes up here in Russia on my Yahoo weather forecast. I have to laugh at that. As though I need a chance to live and work in the USA.


Here's Miss Liberty again in a photo banner. In Russian it says, your country is participating in a lottery. So it's a chance to win a green card. Or something.


Say, talking about the statuesque, here's a lady even taller than Miss Liberty. This is Mat' Rodina (Mother of the Homeland) in Kiev, to commemorate victory over Fascist invasion of World War 2. The former USSR had this thing about massive statues. Look carefully and you'll see me at the base waving to you. . .and you. . . and you.


Here's Mat' Rodina from a different angle. She's located in central Kiev, overlooking the Dneiper River.


Several hundred miles east-southeast in Volgograd, Russia is this statue, also called Mat' Rodina. (See the people at the base?) This represents Mother Russia calling citizens to defend the country during WW2. As you know, the battle for Volgograd was a decisive battle of the war, when Fascist troops were finally defeated. They say that the Volga River flowed red with blood after the battle. But that's where Hitler was turned back.


Here she is from another angle. Visit this statue and the museum nearby and majestic music playing, all very stirring. But hey, let us not digress. These two Motherland statues may be taller than Miss Liberty, but whose birthday is it, anyway?



Now showing at a Rostov movie theater - Lady Liberty decorated with spaghetti and meat balls. She doesn't appear to be too thrilled. Not that we would blame her. . .


Banner - Yahoo! Don't miss your chance!

Oh, but here she is in all her majesty. Dear blog reader, have you visited The Statue of Liberty in person? Please tell us about your visit! And Happy Birthday to that breath-taking symbol of the USA and the many freedoms she represents.

Visit Alaska: No Russian Visa Needed

On October 18th, Alaska celebrated the date on which the state officially became property of the United States in 1867. The day is known, quite fittingly, as Alaska Day.


Have you been to Alaska? Oh. . . you lucky globetrotter, you! Myself, I'm just dreaming of the day. . . (Photo courtesy of Jennifer Davis Kimball. Click image to enlarge.)


Alaska was once owned by Russia, of course. The two are separated by only 55 miles at Bering Strait. The map above would indicate that the Aleutians, that group of volcanic islands that strings west into the Pacific, are divided between the U.S. and Russia. But a big atlas here and other sources seem to indicate otherwise. Anybody have the definitive answer on that? Well, not to worry. . .



What majestic scenery, eh? What a place to explore, see exotic animals, mountains and enjoy the fresh air. What a place for a boy to build a seaworthy vessel. (Photo courtesy J.D.Kimbell)


Here's a copy of the canceled check, made out for $7.2 million or approximately 2 cents an acre. In today's dollars, that would be around $100 million. Or so they say. . .


The purchase of Alaska was originally dubbed Seward's Folly with a nod to William Seward, U.S. Secretary of State, second from left. Above is the treaty signing in 1867. In recent years, we've come to realize how absolutely wise was that purchase. Alaska finally was admitted as a state in 1959, nearly a century later.



Yes, the U.S. and Russia are closer than one might imagine, as noted in the booklet above, developed by the U.S. Embassy in Moscow to celebrate 200 years of diplomatic ties with Russia.


It started with Thomas Jefferson and Tsar Alexander I who corresponded and exchanged books.


In the letter above, dated June 15, 1804, Thomas Jefferson addressed the tsar as "Great and good friend. . . " Eventually John Quincy Adams, pictured, became the first U.S. Minister to Russia in 1807. He lived and worked in St Petersburg from 1814 through 1819. Later, when he became president, Adams used his connection with Russia to establish a strong trading relationship.


In the letter above, from Tsar Alexander I to President Jefferson, I got a little puzzled trying to find even one familiar Russian word. Closer examination with a magnifying glass shows that it's written in French. Oui.


US and Russia: Closer than we think. Sometimes the waters are rough but always there are magnificent opportunities to learn and grow.


What a rich cultural heritage belongs to Alaska. What adventures await in the final frontier! But trust me when I say that we can be so very thankful that visiting Alaska does not require getting a visa to Russia. Thank you, Mr William Seward! (Photo courtesy J.D.Kimbell)

How about you, dear blog reader. Have you visited the land of the midnight sun? Seen a polar bear? Sailed across the tundra behind a team of huskies? Please share your special memories of Alaska! Have to admit that I haven't even made it past page 50 in James Michener's, Alaska. But I'm betting that you have!

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Oh and on a silly note, here's A Song for Sarah, written by Vlad and friend Boris: A Russian response to Mrs Palin.